Thieves

It is most unfortunate, but in the last week I have either witnessed or heard about the robbery of mzungus. Since I have been in Africa, I make it a point to never carry a bag at night. If it can't fit into my pockets, it doesn't come with me. I figured especially after having a computer on the bus, I would like to leave with everything else that I came with. Also, it is just a good rule to follow whenever you are a stranger in a strange land and clearly stand out.

Last night I went to a phone center about a 5-7 minute walk from my flat. I needed to make some calls to America. It was evening and dark, and I usually walk down these streets but always at a rapid pace. People will say hello and I reply back, but I never usually stop because this is when things are go wrong for you here.


On my way home from the phone center, I saw a couple walking in front of me. They were foreigners like me, and I had seen them for the past two weeks near my flat. I never spoke to them, but I watched them walk carelessly down the street. They both had bags and weren't really paying attention to the people around them. I have heard of cars driving slowly behind foreigners with bags and then snatching the bag and speeding off and I thought they were perfect candidates from such an event. Since I was walking quickly, I passed them. I stopped at the chicken barbecue place at the corner of my street where I often get dinner. Ali, the owner, is really nice and often watches out for me when I am on the street and some stranger approaches me.


I placed my order with Ali and took a seat to wait for my food. About 5 minutes later, I saw the couple pass me and the man was also carrying a 5 litre bottle of water. Again, I saw his bag just dangling off of his shoulder. About 20 seconds later, we heard this painful scream coming from down the road. I thought someone was hurt and everyone at the stand ran to the middle of the street where we all saw the man (without his bag) screaming and running down the street. Apparently, a car came next to him and a person snatched his bag and the car sped off. I felt really bad for the guy, and apparently he has been coming to Dar twice a year for several years which could explain his over confidence walking in the evening with a bag.

Also, this past weekend, I heard about an American heading to Zanzibar from Dar being held up near the ferry station from a man he struck up a friendly conversation with earlier in the day. He decided to walk alone through some alleys around the ferry. It was midday and so you would think it should be okay. Well the American guy's new friend pulled up in a car next to him with his friends and forced the American guy into the car at gunpoint. The thieves made off with all of his stuff, except for his passport, ferry ticket, his camera memory card and some money.


Thankfully I haven't had any weird and/or dangerous encounters recently unless you want to count my daily dala-dalah rides to and from work.:)

However, Dar es salaam is not more dangerous than San Francisco really. Most people here are really friendly, nice and helpful. But you can never get too comfortable here because someone may be watching you and waiting for to get careless.

My newest find...

Last night, I went out to dinner with my flat mate, Roberto, 2 Kiva fellows, Ann and Katie, and Roberto's friend, George, an Israel diamond dealer. We went to this great Ethiopian spot located in the Masaki area. And George actually had diamonds with him, which he happily let us look at. They were rough cut, unpolished small diamonds. I have never seen one before, and I probably still wouldn't know it was a diamond unless someone told me. Unfortunately, I did not get any diamonds last night, but I did buy an automatic bottle opener from the bartender at the restaurant. Here is it: (isn't it a beauty?)


I was so excited when the bartender opened our beer bottles with it that I told him that I really like it. He said he had an extra one and sold it to me for 5000 TSH, or roughly $3.30. Although I bought this lovely beauty here in Dar es salaam, it is actually made in China. They also had these neat toothpick holders, which I was also tempted to buy - I don't know why.

Things are going well here in Dar. I am finally settling in, and starting to make friends, which is really great. I am also starting to just settle in like the locals. For example, the dala dalah (bus) rides can be quite intense. The other day on my way home from work, I attempted to get off the bus at the last stop, but before I could get off, people were jumping through the windows and pushing through the door. I was tossed around quite a bit until I finally said "move!" and pushed my way out. Yesterday, I had to tell a few people to please not lay their bodies across my head and face. When I got home my roommate, Roberto, asked me if I got sunburned until I realized that my face was probably chafted from the backsides, purses and other bags that scraped across my cheeks on the bus. At one point, I just put my arm up as a barrier, it sort of worked :)

It is funny because the mzungu, or white people, here sort of complain about the bus, including myself. But I was thinking that the bus experience actually reminds me of trying to board the 38 Geary to and from the downtown area during commuter hours. I think people, like me, are eager to get home after a long day working, so they get super aggressive on the bus. My first two weeks, I was so polite, but as you can see from above, I am starting to just muscle my way on and off the buses now, just like the locals :) They don't seem to mind...

Some Photos

I don't really have many stories, so I thought I would just post a few pictures.

Here is a photo of a leaf that can be used to create hair extensions for ladies on Zanzibar island.












Here is a photo of me at Bjewuu beach located on the island of Zanzibar.








Here is a photo of a narrow street in Stownstown, Zanzibar. What I liked about this photo is that there is a Chinese restaurant across from an English flag, which is near an Italian scooter with three Canadians walking.









And finally - here is a picture of a Tanzanian sunset which I took from the backyard of the first house I stayed at in Dar es salaam.






A new fellow, Ann, just arrived 2 days ago. I am very excited to have another American around and I hope to explore more of Dar es salaam now that I have a companion. And hopefully, as a result, I will have more blog postings.

Asante sana (thank you very much).