Volcan de Lodo El Totumo

Yesterday, I decide to go to the Vocan de Lodo El Totumo. I figured why not - it might be fun to sit inside a volcanic mud bath. I booked it through my hotel, but later that night I decided look at some reviews. And I am glad because I knew what to expect.  Here is how it goes ---

You get picked up by a tourist operator and they proceed to tell you that there are 3 optional services that you have to pay $3000 CP (less than $2 USD) each. The first is a "massage" in the mud bath, the second a photographer, and the third is a woman will clean you like a baby to help you get all of the mud bath. It is sort of hard to say no - but optional really means they are going to do it and charge you for it! I was fine with it, but some of the other travelers were not very happy about it.

You have to walk up these stairs to get to the mud bath.

Then you have to climb down this latter - which is a bit slippery and the bath is filled with people!

You basically just lay back down and then a man will retrieve you and pull you to the side so he can start your massage.

And the massage begins. It lasts for probably about 10 minutes.

And then you attempt to dog paddle over to a corner and just relax. The mud is super buoyant, so you have to be careful not to try and swim or you're whole body floats up. It takes a bit of work to stay upright.

Once you get out, there is a guy at the top who tries to get most of the mud off of you. And this is how you look at the end!






Now here is where it gets funny. So they show you the way to a lake off to the side. You will see about 5 ladies standing in the water ushering you to come over. They push you down so that you are sitting in the water and then they start dumping water all over you. I suspect this is what a dog must feel when he is getting bathed. There may be 5 other tourists (men and women) in the water with you. Everyone is pretty submerged from the neck down. All of the sudden - you feel these hands behind you take off your top and then the woman orders you to remove your bottoms so she can clean the mud off of your suit. You just sit there naked and wait for the lady to finally return your suit. I have never skinny dipped before - however, now I think I can say I have with a bunch of strangers and a woman washing me!

Oh no Cartagena...

Every morning I have gotten up early and been so leisure about my day. The actual morning I have to be somewhere - Craig had to wake me up. Since taxis are iffy here in Bogota, Craig was going to order me a cab when he got to work. Unfortunately, something went wrong and I had to hail a taxi on the street with less than 20 minutes to safely get to the airport. Well I lucked out - my driver was like Mario Andretti. He weaved between cars and got me to the airport in less than 20 minutes. He also didn't cheat me - which was pretty awesome. He was so sweet!

Unfortunately, I was at the international terminal and had to race to the domestic terminal to a very long check-in line. I wasn't sure if I was going to make it so I started chatting with one of the airline workers in English (for a moment I forgot I was in Colombia). The guy gave me the same blank stare I give the Colombians speaking Espanol to me :)  He then gave me a huge smile and laughed and responded to me in English. I made it through security with 20 minutes to spare - went to the wrong gate and then rushed to the correct gate. The flight was delayed for 40 minutes! I went to the Dunkin' Donuts stand got a coffee and a arequipe donut (delicious!).

Arriving in Cartagena - you immediately feel the temperature and humidity. I was a sweaty mess, but so happy to have arrived.

 My first meal in Cartagena.  Cerviche - se fue muy delicioso!

 My first drink - margarita at Cafe Del Mar - watching the sunset!

 Cafe Del Mar.

Leaving the bar and having no idea how to get back to my hotel!








I did make it back to my hotel. I went to a restaurant by the Parque Fernandez Madrid where I got a falafel plate - it was okay. I should have gotten more seafood! I did get serenaded by a fella - it was a mix between rapping and singing. Unfortunately, I had no change to give him, but it was really entertaining. Since I had no money for him - I was afraid to take a photo or video it :(  You'll just have to trust me.

It's hard to see but there are about 5 guys break dancing in the park to both American hip hop (Jay Z) and Colombian Reggaeton music. They were pretty good.

Random photos and commentary from Bogota, Colombia

Apparently it is acceptable to use people's race to reflect the flavor of the ice cream.
A red-headed white woman = strawberry flavor.
A blond white woman = vanilla flavor.
A black man = brownie flavored.
A Latin man = arequipe (dulce de leche) flavor.

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We didn't know what to make of it, but laugh. Nick grabbed the brownie flavor and did a little product endorsement. I suspect if there was a green tea flavor option, an Asian person would be pictured on the carton. In America, this would never happen, but somehow here in Colombia no one sees that this is a bit offensive.

My lovely friend and host - Craig, known in Colombia as Senor Gregory. They can't pronounce Craig :)

Dinner at Julia - Craig's favorite spot near his house. A salumi pizza and a olive and caper pizza. So delicious!

Couldn't resist trying the Dunkin' Donuts.

It was pretty good. Tanya - the DD is located a short distance away from the house I am staying. Didn't try the coffee, but the donuts were good.

I got caught in the rain without an umbrella, so I sought refuge in front of store and waited for light showers before I ventured off again to the gringo shopping mall area. I had to dodge the rain 3 times and it took so long to walk the 15 blocks from the house.

An English pub - London Calling - I loved the Clash reference.

Never been to a country without a Chinese restaurant and Colombia is no exception. However, I think they have a pasta dish - maybe they mean a noodle dish? Not very Chinese - but I hear the place isn't too bad.

I had to take a picture of "Bakers" - we do share a name!

I just thought "BurgerKill" was a funny name for a burger joint.

It's a health food store located in the gringo area. I haven't seen one of these in other parts of Bogota.

Another gringo import - Hooters. A man looked confused as to why I was taking a photo of this establishment, but it made me laugh. I was and wasn't surprised to find a Hooters here. It was off to the side, not in the posh shopping area.

Craig and I have been making homemade guacamole everyday. I have the last two days, and I am not sure I can live without it now.

This is a photo of my lunch. Tortilla, quinoa, lentils and homemade guacamole. It is so good!

Patience really does pay off....

I am not a patient person. I try, but I am always in a hurry - not really sure why. Everyone operates on their own time, and this definitely includes animals. On my second day in Colombia, I spent the day and evening at a lovely farm compound outside of Chia, Colombia. I did already write about my crazy fun filled weekend, but I didn't write about the baby horse (foal). There were several show horses on the property and a few foals.

On Saturday afternoon, they were all locked up in their stables, so I looked through a small gap to take peak. And this is what I saw.

The next morning, I saw a mama horse with her foal in a holding area next to the house. I ran back into the house to grab my camera because I wanted to get some good shots, while the horses were grazing. I didn't get too close at first because I didn't want to upset the horses.

Eventually they moved pretty far away from me, and so I just observed from afar. I leaned against the fence and watched them for about 10 minutes or so. I wanted them to come back closer to me, so I could take close-up shots and pet the foal.

As I watched them, they watched me. The foal stayed close by his mother's side and often would stand behind her to shield himself from my stares.

I started making kissing sounds - like you would when you call a dog to come. At first, they both just looked up at me and didn't move any closer. So I waited another five minutes, and I started making the kissing sounds again. It worked, they started grazing closer to me.

Eventually this little guy put his face through the opening of the fence and let me pet him. He was soft and sweet. Others started coming out to see the horses. He got spooked and took off. But for a brief moment, my patience totally paid off and I got wonderful shots of the horses and gave the little guy a proper greeting.

My first 48 hours in Colombia

Hola!  Wow it has been an incredible time in Colombia so far.  The first night I was here - Craig's friend Molly had her 29th birthday celebration. The party was in full swing - with solo cups set up for beer pong and flip cup. The first time I played beer pong was on July 4, 2010 in Nairobi, Kenya with Americans, and this Friday was my first time playing flip cup. There were Americans, Colombians, a lone Mexican and a lone Australian at the party.  At about 2 a.m. and nearly up for 24 hours, I had to call it a night.  Honestly, I couldn't believe that I was still awake and drinking at that point.

The next day - 9 of us set off to a lovely farm owned by a Colombian woman named Maria outside of Chia, Colombia.  Today (Monday) is a national holiday in Colombia, so everyone was taking advantage of the long weekend.  We ended up buying probably an entire cow worth of meat and the boys set off BBQing.

After drinking and eating the entire afternoon and early evening, we were hoping to play Tejo - a Colombia sport which apparently involves gunpowder -  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tejo_(sport).  (I hope to play this game before I leave on Sunday).

We made it out of the gate, and then the thunder, lightning and rain started and so we all retreated back to the compound.  Of course, the Americans brought the solo cups, so it was on to another game of beer pong and switching between listening to American and Colombia Reggaeton tunes.

An American Hapa channeling his inner Juan Valdez.

After the rain stopped, these kids wanted to go out still - so we all headed to a place called Andres Carne De Res - which has the reputation as one of the craziest clubs in Colombia.  It is sort of like a dance club merged with a T.J.I.F. restaurant with workers in crazy outfits dancing around.  It apparently was a slow night when I was there, but it was pretty busy.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hLbf2nX0Js (YouTube video I found of the place).

It was another late night, and by the end, I had a terrible headache, which I had since I arrived due to the altitude.  I longed to have my body vertical for a bit.

It had been a crazy few days, but it wasn't over for me yet.  Apparently on Sundays at 2 p.m. in Bogota, Craig and some of his workmates get together to play soccer.  Well I hadn't played soccer since sophomore year in high school, and I just don't know how to play.  There were 9 of us - 7 men and 2 ladies.  I ran up and down that field and thought I was going to pass out.  I mean, honestly, I had been out drinking and dancing for the last two nights, so physically I wasn't in the best shape.  We played for an hour - alternating from running around the field and playing goalie.  Well I do get into whatever sport I am playing and so at one point I was attempting to block the ball from coming into the goal - I was successful!  Unfortunately, it was my face that blocked it :(  When you see those players taking a hit to the face from a soccer ball - it's as painful as you imagine it to be!

Today - my body has finally caught up to all of the excitement and events since my arrival and I am taking it easy.  Craig is at work, and so I have the day to myself.  I booked a flight to Cartagena for Wednesday and ventured outside the apartment to grab lunch and successfully made it back to the apartment.  It's been so fun and I can't wait to see how the rest of the trip goes!

I'm coming Bogota... I can't wait!

Bogota!  I woke up this morning with my hands excitedly pumped up – thinking today I begin my journey to Bogota, Colombia.  It’s funny how an international trip always seems to get me overly excited and filled with optimism.  I have no guidebook but a small pocket Spanish dictionary and just a good attitude waiting to get there.  Fortunately for me – I have a friend living and working there.  It’s not every day you get invited to Bogota, so I couldn’t pass this opportunity.  My trip is a mix of vacation and a deep desire to be inspired by folks who are having an impact on the world.  My friend Craig started an organization down in Colombia called Polymath Ventures – check out a write up about the organization -- http://bit.ly/1aIlwkt. 

I am currently just biding my time at SFO before my long journey to Bogota, but seriously I can’t complain.  I feel like a 5 year on Christmas morning about to open my gifts.  I can’t wait to get there, see the city I visited 10 years and see if I notice any changes, and of course see Craig and his exciting work!  I hope to update my blog during my trip, but the trip is quick (10 days) and I don’t want to be glued to my computer.  Ciao for now…

Old Friends, New Friends

How often to get to return to a place you once visited, and get to see people you connected with while abroad?  I have travelled quite a bit, but generally never the same place twice, and never long enough to feel a strong connection or affection for those who have I met.

When I first arrived in Dar es Salaam, I didn't know a single person in the entire country, let alone Dar.  Through the kindness of other development workers, I was able to secure a permanent place to live for the remaining 2 months I spent in Dar in 2010.  One the corner of my street (Sofia Kawawa), there was a restaurant owner, Ali, where I got most of my dinners of kuku and chipsi (chicken and fries).  His food was delicious and cheap, so it was perfect during my self-funded volunteer position with Kiva.  However, we also developed a friendship, where he would bring me sweets back from Zanzibar, when he would go back to visit his family.  He also took care that no one bothered me in the street, and always asked me how I was doing and if I needed anything.  I never forgot about him and the kindness he showed me during my previous stay, so I made it a point to return and say hello.  

I almost didn't recognize him as he has lost a lot of weight.  When he saw my face, he looked confused at first, and then it registered that he knew me :)  It was wonderful and the food was just as good as I remembered.

Ali (his restaurant is located in city centre- on the corner of Sofia Kawawa and India Street)

I also got an opportunity to see the women I worked with at Tujijenge Tanzania, Kiva's partner microfinance institution in Tanzania.  I worked with a woman named Rita, whom I affectionately referred to as Mama Rita.  Debora is the marketing director at Tujijenge and although I did not work directly with her, she often taught me Swahili phrases, and kept my spirits up through laughter.   

When I first arrived at Tujijenge, Mama Rita was quiet and not very self assured, and she often told me that I was very strict in my training of her.  I had just arrived from Ghana, where the microfinance institution's relationship with strained, and I really wanted to strength the relationship in Tanzania.  

Debra, me, and Mama Rita

Mama Rita is one of the sweetest and caring people I have ever met.  She is also quite capable and smart, and I pushed her because I knew she was capable of so much more.  It is weird to push someone who is old enough to be your mother, but I couldn't help myself.  Once I left my placement at Tujijege, Mama Rita wrote to me to inform me that Kiva had increased Tujijenge's monthly fundraising from $45,000 to $95,000.  On this visit she informed me that their monthly fundraising is now $150,000 per month.  

Tujijenge has moved to its own building, and Mama Rita proudly showed me the new facility.  She has grown so much as a person and as the Kiva Coordinator since our first meeting.  It was very sweet as she thanked me for helping her double Tujijenge's monthly fundraising limit and said that her work with me helped her continue to grow their monthly fundraising limit.  Although it felt nice to know that my time at Tujijenge had a positive influence, I did not do the heavy lifting of the work, like Mama Rita.  Mama Rita deserves all the credit and it was so wonderful to see how well the organization is doing.  

I also got to meet the new Kiva fellow, Marion Walls, who is wrapping up her time at Kiva.  Her experience was very similar to mine, except she took a leave of absence from her job, and it figuring out where to go from there.  

Marion, Mama Rita and me

It's been over 3 years since I left my job as an attorney at a law firm, and although I haven't exactly figured my life out yet, this journey has been incredible!

Here are some photos and new friends I have met along this latest journey :)

Me, Essau (African Banjoist) and Ali

Ali, Moses (works for our partner Vodacom), and me

This little gem is Genesis (his father, Christian, works with us on the technical end of the project)