This phrase it was we often see on police vehicles in America and what you would think that a police officer should do for its citizens. However, I have found that in Africa, many people have the same feelings of fear and disgust that many Americans have of police officers.
When I was in Ghana, I remember hearing stories about corrupt cops pulling vehicles over for any small infraction or no infraction just to illicit a bribe. Well last night, I believe I witnessed such an occurrence, even though I did not see it actually happen.
My day began pretty uneventfully. I did my routine morning walk to the internet cafe to catch up on emails and then I headed to the office of the MFI that I am currently helping out in Dar es salaam. Their system was down, just as it had the day before, so I walked home. Before I left the office, I made plans with another foreign girl working in the office to have dinner in the Masaki area. After work, we took a local bus, or dalla dalla, to Masaki. That is when things started to get a little too adventurous.
The bus was packed and there was a traffic jam. Our bus driver decided that he did not want to wait for his turn, so he drove onto the curb into the sidewalk full of pedestrians pass the gridlock. First, I watched in horror as pedestrians were quickly getting out the way of the bus, and then I finally closed my eyes and prayed that we did not hit anyone. Then the bus drove off the curb onto the street narrowly missing a car. Shortly thereafter, we got off the bus to my relief.
Then we had to cross a highway to get to a tuk tuk (3 wheeled vehicle). While my work friend was negotiating the price with one tuk tuk driver, another tuk tuk driver came over and told my friend in Swahili that he was there first and so we should take his tuk tuk. Our tuk tuk driver denied this , and we got in. As our tuk tuk driver attempted to start his vehicle and drive off the other tuk tuk driver was fiddling with something at the back of the vehicle which prevented the motor from starting. Finally, after the fourth attempt our tuk tuk driver drove off while the other tuk tuk driver yelled and ran behind our vehicle.
We finally got to our dinner destination, which is this little outdoor local restaurant known for great kebabs. I got to meet a few other people, and it was nice to finally just relax and shoot the breeze with some ladies.
When it was time to leave, we decided that I would take my own tuk tuk home because I live in a completely different area than my dinner companions. My gut was telling me to take a taxi because it was dark and tuk tuk driver usually don't know how to get to where I live. This is because tuk tuk drivers are prohibited from picking up fares from the city center, where I leave, but they can drop you off. But of course, I ignored my gut and got in. He was a nice guy and I actually shared the tuk tuk with another local guy for part of the trip.
Unfortunately once we got into the city center, I told him to make a left turn on a one way street, not realizing it was one way. You see I walk everywhere, so the concept of one way doesn't even phase me. Anyways, he did not even make the left turn yet, but was starting to do so, when I heard a yell from across the street. It was a cop with a rifle. He called us over and then he got into the tuk tuk with me. He rested his rifle between his legs as he explained that it was a one way street we were trying to turn down. I explained to the cop that it was my fault because I told the tuk tuk driver to turn left. Then in Swahili he started to direct my driver. I had no idea where they were going, and finally the cop asked me where I was heading. I told him Clock Tower, then he responded Mlimani city? (which is nowhere near Clock Tower and actually is clear across town). Finally I provided the cop with a major street near my house and we were off. I would be lying if I did not say that I was actually pretty nervous and scared because you have no idea what is going on, and I really wanted to ask the cop to please leave my tuk tuk, but he has a gun, so I figured it is better to not piss him off. I also quickly realized that this cop wanted a pay off but I wasn't sure if it was from me or my tuk tuk driver.
I would have gladly paid any fine but I did not really know how to approach the situation. Once we arrived at my house, the cop asked me if I paid the driver, which I quickly did, and they were off. I am pretty sure that my fare and maybe some other fares from that evening were paid to the cop.
After last night, I decided to carry a map of the city center with me so that I can show the driver where I need to go, and hopefully, not have a repeat of last night with the cop, the gun and my sad tuk tuk driver who probably had to pay off the cop.
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